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G6-20

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Posts posted by G6-20

  1. How easy / costly is it, I wonder, to convert a regular one into gas ?

     

    Need a gas regulator, argon/c02 gas bottle, maybe new wire reel ? plumbing bits, pipes, connectors. maybe other bits?

     

    Why do gas machines cost so bloody much. Seems to be £100 non, and £400 gas, crazy.

  2. Alan, try find one with 1-6 or higher, adjustable dial switches, for both wire speed, and amps/power.

     

    Having the ability to fine tune the settings, makes all the difference I find.

     

    The machines with just high and low button on, it's hard to get a decent weld with those. Power always seems to be not enough, or too much.

     

    Usually the better machines have adjustable everything, including gas  on/off timing, and gas flow

  3. On 13/11/2018 at 18:31, Tomb said:

    Changed my lift bolts (I was surprised to see wear on them; changed the rocker cover gasket; oil breather upper gasket; oil pick up o ring; changed the plugs; transmission oil change; engine oil change; new oil filter; flushed my rad and matrix before refilling the system; replaced a small section of exhaust to replace a very rusty weld.

     

    Busy bastard.

    Good stuff

    • Like 1
  4. 6 hours ago, Celia_Alan said:

    What is other peoples opinions on these ?

     

    I'm amazed they sell gas-less migs, as every time i've used one, I've been disappointed.

     

    Even running them on maximum power, they don't penetrate properly, unless your welding really thin stuff. Thinner than car panels.

     

    most of the time they just stick weld to the surface, with minimal penetration. A single spot weld might look ok, and hold in place, but if you hit it with a hammer, it'll break half the time, and the finish you get is very porous, sometimes brittle, and they have a habit of splattering weld everywhere.

     

    It's annoying that the gas machines cost loads more, especially when you only want it for a couple small repairs, but there the only way to go in my opinion.

     

    If I were you, id buy a gas one, use it for your repairs, and re-sell it on eBay for £50 less.

    That way your not spending too much money, and you'll be much more likely to get a good solid repair

  5. I know this is an old thread, but a guy I know kept coming into work, going on about this 40 year mot exempt thing, saying his old beetle and camper, will be exempt when the law comes in.

     

    I didn't believe it, with health and safety becoming more and more strict over the years, thinking it was an accident waiting to happen, so I did some research on proper government websites, and it only applys for tax, not the mot. Even old cars still have to have the test, but there much less strict, and the emissions dont get tested. Emissions are only done by a visual check, as long as it's not bellowing smoke out, it'll pass.

     

  6. On 03/11/2018 at 14:59, Bobbyh said:

    fitted a new klarius back box a little while back and it did change the sound. It now burbles a bit when you lift off and sounds a bit more raspy throughout the revs 

     

    With all these reports of noise, it would seem like there like that unfortunately :( shame.

     

    For anyone that's curious, or needs a replacement for daily use, it might be worth spending the extra money, and getting genuine Toyota silencers, they seem superior in build quality. Not sure on the actual price of them tho, they could be silly money, you never know with dealer parts, sometimes they're dirt cheap, sometimes there a fortune, will have to investigate.

     

    Might have better luck with something in the middle tho, like Bosal, or an aftermarket pipe that's not race, or horse power orientated.

  7. 4 hours ago, Alistair_GT said:

    Managed fit this yet? I've just bought a Klarius exhaust for my GT (selling the car and putting it back to standard) and i'll be pi**ed if it sounds like that.

     

    Got it dirt cheap as the factory is round the corner from me and I know someone who works there so got it on staff discount. Looks quite nice for a standard exhaust, shiny stainless tip and everything.


    yeah, fitted the 2 pipes yesterday.
    i ditched the de-cat, and put the original cat back on too, while i was there, just for good measure.

    god knows what was going on with the previous back box, might not have had any insulation in ?
    also, the previous centre pipe appeared to have been blowing at both ends of the canister, after inspection, as there was brown carbon/water marks on it, where the seems are rolled over. the new replacement pipe did the same, but from the bottom side, instead of the top, tut tut (must be bad batch of pipes, or just poor construction) so i sealed the channels with exhaust paste, to stop the blow. sounds much better now, can actually drive the car without getting annoyed. no god awful raspy rattling roar, like a straight through exhaust filled with marbles. no more stares from crowds of people, which is good.

    hopefully your pipes are better than the ones i got, but if i were you, id spend some time checking for air leaks after youve installed it. especially that centre silencer, both ones i received, had leaks.

  8. I'll try get them exchanged if they'll allow it.

     

    Trying not to spend anymore money, if I can help it, as I've had to throw over 500 quid in just parts in the last couple months. Lucky I can do all the work myself, or labor costs ontop, would have bankrupted me.

     

    One other thing I noticed, there is a layer of rusty wash colour sat in the end of the tail pipe outlet.

     

    Was just carbon/soot on the old pipe.

     

    Dunno what that's about

  9. has anyone had issues with klarius exhausts being brutally loud, with a ridiculously raspy tone ?
    difficult to describe, but it sounds like the gases are getting hung up, as there leaving the pipe, and causing this bellowing mild sonic-boom type rasp. its nasty.

    i replaced the centre silencer, and rear silencer, with klarius pipes last week, and it sounds like a fart machine upto 3,500 rpm, after that it calms down a bit, unless the cars under heavy load, then it farts all the way.

    it does have a de-cat on, but i didnt notice much difference, when it was with the old toyota exhaust.
    that was much quieter, even with a blow at the back.

    the old pipes were in ok condition, but they were both rotted away at the mating joint, and was blowing gas.
    ive checked for leaks, and as far as i can tell its all good. its building plenty of pressure at the back, when i cover the tail pipe too.

    either ive been sent a bad made pipe, that has no insulation stuff inside ? , or the toyota one is somehow 500% quieter.
    we fit klarius pipes from euro's, to practically everything that comes into work, and never had one sound like this before.

    i know its extreme, but im going to sell the car if i cant sort it out, as its embarrassing to drive. its literally turning entire streets of heads as i approach, sometimes 20 people at a bus stop are all staring at me, as i pass, and worse, i feel like a bastard, waking the neighbours up at 1am - 2am, when i fire up the car, its not far off sounding like it has no exhaust system at all on it.

    im going to try re-fit the cat at the weekend, see what happens, but all the rasp and voilent flutter noise is coming from the back box from what i can tell.
    if the cat makes no change, i might try pulling the backbox off completely, and driving it without one. it might even be quieter with it off.

  10. 6 hours ago, Alistair_GT said:

    I've always used 5w40 FS, last time was Shell helix from ECP. Nothing wrong with using 10w40 though.

     

    Mann filters are fine as well. I tend to used either genuine toyota or blueprint (just because I'm fussy), but I've been using mann filters from ECP on my wifes corolla for about 5 years and it's the same filter as the 3sge.


    forgot about blueprint jap-copy stuff.
    mahle filters are supposed to be pretty decent too

  11. this one appears to meet autodata's book requirements of api-SJ and acea-A3, although says its for diesel engines ?

    https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/10w40-engine-oil/?521776151&0&cc5_245

    the mobil 1 semi-synth meets A3 + SJ requirements too.

    https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/10w40-engine-oil/?521771871&0&cc5_245

    that shell hx7 stuff is SN-api, slightly different. probably doesnt make much difference tho ?
    the rest of there semi oils are the same SN or SL, only a couple are SJ tho, hmm. i think im over complicating this, haha. just throw in any old stuff, and itll be fine most likely.
     

    39 minutes ago, 99GT said:

    Actually, just checked the front page of the website and there is a discount code on oil now for 35% off stated prices. 


    yeah, code ' mid50 ' for the next 27 hours.

    ive found a good combo, im set on :)
    mann oil filter, and mobil super 2000 x1
    probably a fiver more than the other oil, ill treat the old girl, to some posh stuff :)

  12. Euro car parts only seem to have 2 choices, of 5-30 full synth dribbly water, or thick gloopy 20-50 mineral.

     

    Bit of a contrast.

     

    However I've checked auto data, and the 3sge seems to be ok with anything between 5 and 50. Both semi and full, so doesn't appear to be a fussy engine. It'll eat anything, like a pisshead after 10 pints.

     

    Personally my favorite stuff, that I've used for years without trouble, in all my cars, is 10-40 semi.

     

    Is that Celica filter still being made new, for a range of multiple cars, or will it be a gamble on the age of it, when buying on eBay ?

  13. 23 hours ago, bazz54 said:

    I can think of one car that's even more gutless and that's my Rover Saloon, but only of the driver's door. Every so often I apply some silicone spray to the rubber guides (don't get it on the main area of the glass or the upholstery). It helps a bit.

     

    Going one step further would involve taking off the door cards and removing and fettling the regulator.

     

    Just thinking of those days where frost/ice welds the window to it's surround.

     

    I suppose with the Celica, being a frameless window, once you rip the door open, it'll break all the ice at the top side of it away,

     

    Hopefully no one smashes a window

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