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G.Lewarne

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Everything posted by G.Lewarne

  1. Replaced AC condenser, and all union O-rings (with the proper type and lube) at the compressor and condenser. Had pressure test, leak test then re-gas+oil done at local garage Super chilly AC, finally! (and fingers crossed it lasts more than a month)
  2. Is it stiiting wonky at the back or is that just the photo ?
  3. Fitted my new dashcam, routed the cable along the inside of the headliner, down behind the A-Pillar trim, in behind the dash, up to the cigarette socket area, spliced in my 12v>5v adapter box I made (using the guts of an old cigarette usb adapter) to the current cigarette socket feed. Really pleased how that turned out, you cant see a trace of the power cable anywhere. Job done! Fits in behind the rear view mirror nice, MOT man should be happy with placement up there as you cant see it at all in the drivers seat
  4. quite the opposite. When you had the 501 led in series it was only allowing a handful of miliamps to flow through that circuit (and hence the coil) because of its built in current limiting resistor. That would have stopped the coil being energized properly and the contacts pulling in. Always put indicator LEDs in parallel with a load, not in series for this reason
  5. This is what I would do . The indicator LED is in parallel with the new load so to actually give an indication if the load is receiving power or not. Put it anywhere else, such as in parallel with the relay coil and all you are getting is an indication that the relay is getting power - the load fuses might be blown but the LED would still light up, which is useless. Also, you may not need the back EMF diode, a lot of automotive grade relays already have them built in
  6. also, to be honest its risky having a long cable run from battery positive, through a relay contact and then into a fuse - the fuse should be as close to the battery end of your new supply line as possible otherwise, say if your wire chafes through the insulation, you potentially have a big-ass amp supply cable unfused shorting to ground witch is definitely a fire risk
  7. continuity test the relay contacts, see if they do open and close when the coil is energised. Most relays are multi-pole and some even have commoned contactors - double check you are correctly wired across them to open close the circuit when the coil is energised I am curious why you have the LED in series with the coil though, you will get a little voltage drop because of that and it may not make the contactors move fully into position. If you want and indicator LED, instead put it across 30 and ground with its own current limiting resistor
  8. scrubbed, primed, painted and injected cavity wax into my front subframe while its still solid and showing no signs of rust whatsoever.... Also did the same to the front crossmember / radiator support bar before the surface rust took hold into something worse
  9. Made an interesting discovery about rear strut components
  10. Really? how old are they? Ive used plenty of pagid coated discs over the years and never seen them go that crusty
  11. personally, I would replace. Ive never seen it happen when ive used pre-coated or painted myself discs (VHT paint) Try some pagid discs from ECP they come pre coated and rust much much much less
  12. This sort of nonsense is very common on the inside of discs on all sorts of cars. Did you fit all new discs and pads? I'm not 100% on what causes it, ive seen it happen on cars with perfectly good sliders and calipers myself. My own personal theory is that unlike the front face which is one continuous piece of metal to the hub part, the rear side is basically floating on the cooling fins. Once rust starts naturally forming on those fins, it more easily "creeps" around to the friction side. Once a big enough chunk of rust forms to "wear" a bit of that pad off, the pad no longer closely sweeps that part, allowing a little more rust to form, wearing the pad again, allowing more rust to form...... Another contributing factor, I think, is that there is a lot more potential angulation of pressure on the inside pad of floating calipers. The outside pad really had no option other than being pressed totally flat against the disc and there is a lot more surface area of the caliper pressing against it, the inside however had a relatively small amount of surface area because only the piston is pushing - get a small chunk of crud on the back of the pad and the piston can potentially start going at effectively a bit of an angle just a theory
  13. Fixed some more interior rattles - removed headlining and tightened every bolt, ziptied and padded every wire and tube etc. Also tightened the rear sunroof bar that goes across the two rails - was very loose and rattly
  14. Fixed and cleaned up minor gearbox oil leak at the drain plug. Obviously also did gearbox oil at same time. Used a new sealing washer, and filled with Comma 75w90 GL4 oil What came out was golden syrup colour so not actually too bad really. But since I didn't know the history of the car figured may as well do the oil at these miles Job took about 15 mins, no jacking required EDIT: Wow! so much better! smoother gear changes, box is quieter, and the odd noise I thought I was occasionally getting from my release bearing is gone
  15. Ive used Budweg calipers from brakeparts.co.uk and brakes international on numerous cars, and have two of theirs on the rear of my Gen7. Would heartily recommend them without hesitation. Pretty good value too. And just a random throught - and I have seen this - is that tyre fitted the correct way around? ive seen quite a few over the years coming out of tyre places with the inside on the outside
  16. suppose that tyre could be from a different batch with a slightly different compound than the others which was more susceptible to wear. otherwise, not really sure.
  17. unfortunately its a pretty open question with lots of answers. When you say you had an alignment, was it a full geometry or just tracking? Tracking on it own wont really show up any other geometry problems that can cause excessive tyre wear. As could a number of mechanical faults on that side. Any indication of balljoint, track rod or wishbone bush wear on that corner? Looking for anything that would allow that wheel to snake a bit while driving
  18. With that stuff, prep is key You need to remove all possible traces of crap, flakey stuff, rust etc. Then treat with a rust treatment, then something like the red oxide primer, than the underseal if you really want to. Make sure you do it on a very dry day after the car has been warm and dry for at least a couple days. I prefer not to use underseal products, I never found they work very well, and just "slapped on" can lead to nasty hidden rot that you, or the MOT man, might not see. I prefer the treat, primer and paint methodology myself rather than underseal
  19. look at the underside of the hatch. there are two rubber grommets, one with cable going through. 10mm nuts underneath those, pops right out
  20. YES! YYYYEEEESSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111111111oneone I just fixed my super-annoying boot area popping noise. Has been doing my head in for months! Finally got someone in the back listening, and we identified that my high level brake light was the cause. Unbolted it, bit of self adhesive velco underneath, bolted back up, ziptied its cable a bit more taught......BOOM NOISE GONE Out of all the work ive done to my car, that has made me the happiest, LOL
  21. yeah, like I said, mine may not be the prettiest or fastest, but she is definitely well built now. My intention is to have one of the best stock mechanical cars for shows and meets. Bodywork comes later. This is my first car that isn't made of rust and hope...so I'm looking after it!
  22. wow, that's quite the question, lets see if I can remember! Front specific: - Shocks x2 £110 - Bumpstops and shock boots x2 £25 - Wishbones x2 £90 - Balljoints x2 £30 - Topmounts x2 £90 - Droplinks x2 £25 - Track rod ends x2 £30 - Inner tie rods x2 £30 - Calipers x2 (re-manufactured) + sliders+boots £110 - Discs and pads £70 - ARB bushes x2 £10 Rear: Specific - Shocks x2 £90 - Shock upper rubber mounts x2 £20 - Trailing arms + hub carriers x2 between me and AMS - Droplinks x2 £30 - ARB bushes x2 £10 - Wheel bearing / hub units x2 £45 - Brand new calipers inc sliders + bolts £110 - Discs and pads £50 - Handbrake shoes £17 + fitting kit £10 - New rear subframe £170 - Camber arms x2 between me and AMS - New camber bolts, complete set x2 - £60 - New *other* suspension bolts £30 All round: - Lowering springs, AMAX, £37 - Full geometry alignment £39 Engine: - AC Compressor - from AMS, don't remember price - AC Re-Gas £35 - Radiator £75 - Water pump £35 - Serpentine tensioner spring + pulley + belt £35 - Pre and Post CAT Denso lambda sensors, £56 each - Exhaust back box - New Denso MAF - Coolant Temp Sensor + usual service bits Probably missed a lot of stuff out Every part, other than those supplied by AMS is brand new. All work carried out by myself, apart from the AC re-gas and alignment. Most of the new parts are from only three suppliers so all quality stuff. Generally Delphi, ADL Blueprint and Solid Ace. Others are Toyota OEM or whatever ImportCarParts supply, which is always good quality. Radiator was the Koyorad from ECP pretty sure ill straight pass my upcoming MOT. If I even get one advisory I will eat Daytona's hat
  23. Well, stage 1 is nearly complete! She may not be the prettiest, most powerful, sexiest Celica, but she sure is 1) Completely Rust free 2) Completely New / Rebuilt Suspension and Steering - every component 3) Completely new brakes 4) Fully aligned 5) Totally safe and amazing Stage 2 - all the bodywork dings and scratches comes after
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