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cooperman

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Posts posted by cooperman

  1. but you are looking to produce a set torque to make sure the nut against the tapered seat has the friction required to no come loose? different taper and different wheel material equals different torque?

    these are genuine questions (not statements) if you have answers i would like to know.

    thanks

    andy

  2. minor/regular service is normally:

    engine oil and filter

    spark plugs

    air filter

    pollen filter (if your lucky)

    check brakes (if your lucky)

    oil hinges and door catches (if your very lucky these days)

    check tyres and pressures (again very lucky)

    check wiper blades (if your luck)

    major/full service is normally:

    the above and

    dissy cap

    rotor arm

    cam belt and tensioners/idler

    change coolant (if your luck)

    change brake fluid (if your very lucky)

    change power steering fluid (if your very lucky)

    to be honest i have gone through a car after its had a minor service and found the only thing they may have done (and im still not convinced of that) is changed the oil, not even the filter. this is what is seen as acceptable from garages now a days. it is disgusting.

    always ask for all the old parts back off the car or at least to see them. this way you will know that the work has been done. make sure you have a eyeball of the parts they say they will be doing to the car before hand so that you can identify that old parts when they show you. as its to easy to pull anything out the scrap bin and say it was yours.

  3. if they are self rated then it means nothing at all. its the same as iso standard ect. with iso if you state that you are producing rubbish then you can be iso accredited as producing rubbish, they only way you will loose this is if you produce some thing good.

    if its self rated then you would take your worst tyre and call this a G and then take your best tyre and call it an A.

    if they were independently assessed they may both come out at G as the difference is little between them. but in your range they are top and bottom.

    there for making the new rating scheme useless, well less than useless as it just adds to the confusion.

    having worked with the Chinese for a while now even a letter of conformity or inspection report is not worth the paper its written on. so even if the tests were standardised then i still would not believe them for a Chinese product unless they were independently checked when entering the EU.

  4. batteries can be had very cheap these days. so go with a good brand one, that should be around the £50-60 mark and as high a cca as you can fit under the bonnet and you will not go wrong. most come with a 2-5 year guarantee now as well so if it goes wrong take it back. :)

  5. :o:o Jeeeeeeezus, I can't quite believe you are asking this. :o:o Sound kit wire is no where near man enough for the battery cable. Battery cables are for car batteries, Sound wire are for ICE systems.

    6" of the correct cable isn't going to break the bank, Just buy the correct stuff then there is no risk of your pride & joy going up in flames with an electrical fire when you try & start your car.

    think he is on about using the amp wire as in 4gauge +/-. if this is the case and as long as the wire is no thinner than the thickest wire connected to the battery then it will be fine over a length of 6" or so. (make sure the wire is rated for, as said above around the 125amp range)

    for joining the 2 wires together again nothing thinner than the wire its self. so if using a bolt then it will have to be big (like m10 or m12). but the main problem here is making sure that how ever you join it it is insulated from earthing out on any thing.

  6. you should use as big a cable as possible for the battery + and -

    if you use the same as what is in the car you will end up with voltage drop over the distance you are now passing voltage.

    here is a table for example, i havent read the page but the table looks right.

    http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_wiring.html

    and the gen 6 is 14.5 feet nose to tail. you should be in the 105-125 range i would have thought so putting you in the min of 2gauge to 0gauge at the length of the car. (4gauge as standard)

    but going bigger is always better. not always easier, but better. :)

    • Like 1
  7. im still running my optima yellow. not had any problems with it and it will run my audio (3 amps, carpc and 12 speaker system) for about 8 hours and still start the car. I know this as I fell asleep watching a film (well parked camping) and woke up in the morning expecting the worst. turned the key and it fired straight up. also as its a yellow it was in the celica when I parked it up after the accident, just running the alarm. totally drained the battery. then this winter started having issues with the yaris battery dying in the cold weather. so went picked up the yellow top stuck it on charge after about 14-16 month being sat dead. came back to life and is running fine in the yaris. it only hold a charge of about 11.9volts rather than the 12.4 it should, so the the extended down time with out charge in it has weakened it a little. but still performs well.

    oh and mine was a daily celica until the accident and I have had the battery about 6-7 years.

    this is the one I have,

    http://thebatteryshop.co.uk/yts42-8012-254-optima-yellow-top-dual-purpose-4519-p.asp

    I will say though I have heard a lot of horror stories about optima's as well and have to say, there are cheaper alternatives out there now that will do the same thing.

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