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Posts posted by cooperman
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70lb/ft seems low. most manufactures are around the 110nm (81lb/ft). is this just the setting for drying the thread lock?
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loctite 603 is the one we use here to fit studs to manifold. these are studs that are designed to be fitted and never come out again, steel stud in to aluminium.
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the next size up torx bit hammered in there and the use of an impact gun in the garage should have that out in seconds.
if not there are special tools designed for this or easy-out and the likes that a good garage may have to hand.
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dont know if bek does these but you may find he would be cheaper on a quote than that.
http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/forum/234-bek8111/
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no you will pay for a whole month just for today if you do it now. wait until the first and then do it.
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most of the time you will find spring washers on the cover bolts. if they have spring washers then no thread lock is needed as these will stop them from coming loose.
and reusing the old ones will be find if they are in a good state.
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10cm difference on the front? that cant be right? thats like the front left wheel touching the arch and a 4inch gap on the front right.
this must be a typo and if it 445mm FL then 5mm is nothing.
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here
http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/
or here
http://www.sfsperformance.co.uk/index.asp
more specifically
and here
http://www.siliconhose.com/content.asp?inc=product&catalog=MS305
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can we please get back to the question at hand.
and that was ST185 or ST205?
thanks all
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make sure you check the toyota book for the bolts that are high tensile 8.8 and above and dont change them unless you get the right bolts.
hopefully this works.
http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/94_205_engine/IN/IN.htm
no it doesnt. click the link then click on the standard bolt torque bit and it will tell you all you need to know.
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m6 and m8 are normal course thread (m6x1.0 and m8x1.25). m10 and m12 are metric fine (m10x1.25 and m12x1.25).
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ps toyota register there fuel filters for 1 million miles, or at least they use to (dont think this has changed) and this is why if you get a toyota (proper) service manual it will have nothing in there about fuel filters. as they should out live the car.
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minor/regular service is normally:
engine oil and filter
spark plugs
air filter
pollen filter (if your lucky)
check brakes (if your lucky)
oil hinges and door catches (if your very lucky these days)
check tyres and pressures (again very lucky)
check wiper blades (if your luck)
major/full service is normally:
the above and
dissy cap
rotor arm
cam belt and tensioners/idler
change coolant (if your luck)
change brake fluid (if your very lucky)
change power steering fluid (if your very lucky)
to be honest i have gone through a car after its had a minor service and found the only thing they may have done (and im still not convinced of that) is changed the oil, not even the filter. this is what is seen as acceptable from garages now a days. it is disgusting.
always ask for all the old parts back off the car or at least to see them. this way you will know that the work has been done. make sure you have a eyeball of the parts they say they will be doing to the car before hand so that you can identify that old parts when they show you. as its to easy to pull anything out the scrap bin and say it was yours.
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if they are self rated then it means nothing at all. its the same as iso standard ect. with iso if you state that you are producing rubbish then you can be iso accredited as producing rubbish, they only way you will loose this is if you produce some thing good.
if its self rated then you would take your worst tyre and call this a G and then take your best tyre and call it an A.
if they were independently assessed they may both come out at G as the difference is little between them. but in your range they are top and bottom.
there for making the new rating scheme useless, well less than useless as it just adds to the confusion.
having worked with the Chinese for a while now even a letter of conformity or inspection report is not worth the paper its written on. so even if the tests were standardised then i still would not believe them for a Chinese product unless they were independently checked when entering the EU.
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all true, for the gen 6. its a cheap car at the moment and will go forever.
4's and 5's have gone up in price now and good ones are in the £1000 or more bracket were as the 6's there are still a few about and are worth nothing really (give it a few years more and they will go up, but not yet).
so for sub £1000 its a hard car to beat.
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batteries can be had very cheap these days. so go with a good brand one, that should be around the £50-60 mark and as high a cca as you can fit under the bonnet and you will not go wrong. most come with a 2-5 year guarantee now as well so if it goes wrong take it back.
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i think thats what they call a "low temp racing thermostat" doesnt look accidental to me that one. so i hope you are getting some miles on it before you go just to find out if there is any under lying problems with the car.
but good luck with the trip.
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Jeeeeeeezus, I can't quite believe you are asking this. Sound kit wire is no where near man enough for the battery cable. Battery cables are for car batteries, Sound wire are for ICE systems.
6" of the correct cable isn't going to break the bank, Just buy the correct stuff then there is no risk of your pride & joy going up in flames with an electrical fire when you try & start your car.
think he is on about using the amp wire as in 4gauge +/-. if this is the case and as long as the wire is no thinner than the thickest wire connected to the battery then it will be fine over a length of 6" or so. (make sure the wire is rated for, as said above around the 125amp range)
for joining the 2 wires together again nothing thinner than the wire its self. so if using a bolt then it will have to be big (like m10 or m12). but the main problem here is making sure that how ever you join it it is insulated from earthing out on any thing.
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you should use as big a cable as possible for the battery + and -
if you use the same as what is in the car you will end up with voltage drop over the distance you are now passing voltage.
here is a table for example, i havent read the page but the table looks right.
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_wiring.html
and the gen 6 is 14.5 feet nose to tail. you should be in the 105-125 range i would have thought so putting you in the min of 2gauge to 0gauge at the length of the car. (4gauge as standard)
but going bigger is always better. not always easier, but better.
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think you forgot to add a pic to the thread. i see nothing.
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im still running my optima yellow. not had any problems with it and it will run my audio (3 amps, carpc and 12 speaker system) for about 8 hours and still start the car. I know this as I fell asleep watching a film (well parked camping) and woke up in the morning expecting the worst. turned the key and it fired straight up. also as its a yellow it was in the celica when I parked it up after the accident, just running the alarm. totally drained the battery. then this winter started having issues with the yaris battery dying in the cold weather. so went picked up the yellow top stuck it on charge after about 14-16 month being sat dead. came back to life and is running fine in the yaris. it only hold a charge of about 11.9volts rather than the 12.4 it should, so the the extended down time with out charge in it has weakened it a little. but still performs well.
oh and mine was a daily celica until the accident and I have had the battery about 6-7 years.
this is the one I have,
http://thebatteryshop.co.uk/yts42-8012-254-optima-yellow-top-dual-purpose-4519-p.asp
I will say though I have heard a lot of horror stories about optima's as well and have to say, there are cheaper alternatives out there now that will do the same thing.
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sounds good as long as you are over the total area of 13273.2 then you should be fine. you can also adjust the hole sizes if you want and have them different as long as you end up with the same or more surface area.
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well the area of a 65mm circle is 13273.2 mm2
to equal this with 2 holes you need 46mm diameter = 13295.22 mm2
the choke point of any inlet should always be the throttle disc. if it is any smaller any were else in the system then you will never reach you top end peak performance.
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just remember that 2 30mm diameter pipes do not equal the same as one 60mm pipe.
you should be looking at the size of the throttle body pipe and not be less than that in surface area or your flow will be down and no amount of cold air will make up for that.
High strength threadlock - where to buy?
in Consumable Parts
Posted
but you are looking to produce a set torque to make sure the nut against the tapered seat has the friction required to no come loose? different taper and different wheel material equals different torque?
these are genuine questions (not statements) if you have answers i would like to know.
thanks
andy