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cooperman

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Everything posted by cooperman

  1. yeah but then you will find it messes with the tacho as well and has been pointed out before that the £15 jobbies are not that accurate and people have had issues with them. if you want fancy bit of kit then you could go the same way i did with this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/APEXi-RSM-REV-SPEED-METER-GP-Black-Speed-Limiter-Remover-/400292433907?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d3349cff3 but i thought i would put up the cheaper option first.
  2. easy this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190600534886?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 all imports are limited to 112mph as its the law in japan.
  3. same as above. the fact that some nice person drove in to it and its off the road until the insurance wake up and do something about it.
  4. pva glue?? is it that stuff that sets clear? seem to remember using it to stick pictures but also to cover pics to make them water proof. some old school blue peter stuff there if im thinking of the right thing. then you maybe able to clear coat over the top with out it tainting the image. just an idea that maybe worth a go. if it turns out good enough you might not even have to clear coat it.
  5. i think its only the fact that they rusted away quicker than they caught fire and had to be replaced with something else that made them catch on.
  6. and they are not scared of electrics like we are over here. well with BMC and the likes and there sterling quality of electrics its no surprise really.
  7. yeah mine is a 01/01/1990 built and has folding mirrors. light years ahead just waiting for the rest of the world to catch up basically.
  8. the life span on the bags is not great from what i have heard as well.
  9. on a trip to pick up a land rover disco in mid wales i got 39.8mpg (or 38.9 was a while ago now) in the gen5. mostly motorway with a bit of tiny welsh tracks to find this car and back again. worst i got was at santa pod and i think it was some thing like £20 for 4 runs so about 2 gallons to the mile. but that is a bit of waiting in line and pushing 90mph in 3rd.
  10. there are a few on the club that know them inside and out. soul45 springs to mind, also some one in the gen 5 section (cant remember his forum name though) has allot of experience with them. im guessing you mean garages for service/work though. dont know on that count. sorry not much help.
  11. be careful what you order. stainless is very hard and not as strong as some steel bolts. here is a list of sizes and strengths. hope that helps andy
  12. just look here. http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/150772-ultralite-atec-17x8-bronze-genuine-trd-exhaust-apr-carbon-wing-mirrors-rtp-carbon-bonnet-rtp-carbon-bootlid/#entry1887017
  13. this is all true and it is down to the fact that plating processes have changed. the chemicals used before are no longer aloud to be used as it was arsenic based. older parts on classics would have been hard chrome or cadmium plated. these are still available today but getting the licenses to use the chemicals involved is just not worth the money you can make from them. you will only find specialist platers using them now and you pay through the nose for the pleasure. but as we know from the past that this is well worth the extra cost for something you want to have a long life. the best plating i have come across that is still easily available is nickel but on steel you are still paying double for this over standard zinc plating. at the end of the day its all down to money and bloddy health and safety. (also most of this stuff comes out of china and you can never get material specs or guaranties on processes from them with any tractability = inconsistent sh!t) but this is the "eco friendly" throw away world we now live in.
  14. as far as i have read it this is true. only have to work if you have them fitted.
  15. have a look through this website it will give you all the info you need. takes a bit of clicking to check all cars but can be worth it in the end to get some cheap rims. pt cruiser for example, vw and scoobys. there are a few others as well. http://www.alloyguide.com/
  16. well in that case then if you have done all the above then the only thing i can think of is. the lambda, if it has 2 work together. the first being before the cat and the second being after the cat. if you have change one/pre cat, this only measures whats going in to the cat and then compares to what comes out via the post cat lambda. if the pre cat one is the one you changed then this is the one that measures the dirty exhaust gases the post cat one measures the clean exhaust gases. if the post cat one if fubar then it could think that the cat is working more efficient than it is and adding more fuel. (only adding more fuel because thats what toyota love to do, as its safer on the engine lifespan). other thing to consider are things like service parts. if the spark plugs for example are not working right (old) or not gaped right then it will not be burning the fuel properly/fully.
  17. if there are no holes in the exhaust system and your obd is not showing errors then its all about trial and error. parts to check/replace are: lambda sensor/s cat maf not looked at the gen 7 workshop manual but there many be a way of testing the lambda sensor, like on older cars it give you a measurement you can get with a multi meter. if not in limits it needs changing. cat there is no way of testing as such and is just a replace if nothing else helps. maf im sure there is a way of testing this as well like the lambda. and generally its just a matter of cleaning this out properly. nothing is easy here and having a garage test/inspect these things could end up costing you more than just biting the bullet and getting lambda and cat changed. maf like said is just a clean job and im sure there are guides in the gen 7 bit. hope that helps andy
  18. try getting hold of bek on here he does transport jobs. im sure he is reasonable on price as well.
  19. the beams is a bit special and not many around thats for sure. i forgot to add that there was an at180 i think it was that had a 1.6 4a-fe engine in it. have only ever seen 1 of these that was a genuine uk car. (there maybe more out there??)
  20. there was a gen 5 gt4 light weight version. think it was only an import thing, JDM only option. have only ever heard of 2 in the uk and know one of them was scrapped. dont know what happened to the other. dont no what the designation for it was but it was a narrow body, no sun roof, manual windows, steel wheels and a few other things you only got on this one model. i have a JDM only st183 hard top. it has manual gearbox, 4ws, a sun roof and super live sound system when it came out the factory. not come across allot of these in this spec level. most are auto's or verts or have no sun roof but are still rare in them selves. also the cs/rc gt4 that was/is about (think owned goldspeed?? or something like that) that had factory spec paint in a gold colour. believe this is the only one in that colour (maybe in the world) and the vin plate to go with it. now thats rare. thats all i can think of at the moment.
  21. i have a viper 480xv with added proximity on it. think you will be looking at around £300-350 with proximity fitted. very good alarm and it a 2 way system. so as long as you are with in a half mile radius of the car your alarm fob will beep as well as the car. but any thing (almost) made by directed electronics can have one fitted as an extra.
  22. Happy Anniversary cooperman!

  23. kicker or pioneer do some low profile subs. i have the kickers and they just fit with a bit of cutting of the speaker pod and a 6 mm spacer ring. need any more info let me know. andy
  24. this should be easy enough to do. i have done it before but was a million years ago now. down by the drives kick panel is all the wires you need. think i just whipped the door card off and traced the wires through. there is also enough room to mount said remote locking box just under the dash there as well. i think i had a nightmare to get the indicators to flash as well though. ended up using a simple 2 in 2 out relay to get it to work on the back of the hazard switch. you dont have to run wires to both doors though. just the drivers will do as that will automatically open the passengers anyway. i have gone over to a cat1 alarm now but if i get a chance i will look and see where the wire for that go and it should be the same. might be able to get a picture for you. andy
  25. as far as i know there is only 2 ways around it. to get full OBD2 out of it and thats, 1 buy a new car. 2. change the loom, ecu and engine for a new obd2 engine setup. you have to think of EOBD as being an old analoge signal and the new OBD2 as being a new digital signal. even though alot of tester will read the old EOBD signal it will not be as detailed as the new OBD2 signal.
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