wilo

Cats different length too as are alot of the engine components. Clutch is different too as i found out the hard way .think exhaust manifold is different also ..25th ( jason ) would probably know if its a match

No worries mate ...Any pics of exhaust and do you know if it will fit my ss3 beams as some parts are slightly different on these to normal st202 celicas ...can be a rite pita sometimes

Is yours a st202

It really could be the road conditions. .iv just had 4 new yokos fitted all round and on dry and wet roads they stick like shit to a blanket but the last few days with all this salt and crap on the roads iv noticed a massive difference and am too noticing front end slide on sharp corners and am having to reduce my speed to compensate

I would highly advise not got going white unless you like cleaning them twice a day ..iv just gone candy red from white and yes I miss the white clean look but have soooo much more free time now lol

Yer I have one on my ss-111 and it seems to do the job . you connect the crank case breather pipe( you may have to fit a longer pipe ) to the catch can then take another pipe from the other conection on the can to the air induction . make sure you tap into the induction piping after the map/maf sensor on the air box or the sensor will get soaked in oil ! ..hth

gutted for you mate . too many cowardly b*stards these days that wont own up to there clumsy mistakes . hope you find out whos done it and give them a few dents .

Agree with the 3M used a few pads to shape the new number plate round my front bumper and they held the pressure of the plate wanting to spring back straight no problem .

couldn't tell on the original pic they were polished . looking good tho now

if its through to the metal I would get a tin of etching primer and a touch up pen kit from your local Halfords . spray a little etching primer in the lid and use a small brush to apply the etching primer to the area . let it dry for a few hours then carefully wet and dry with 1500 grade . Apply touch up pen and wet and dry with 2000 grade between coats to get a smooth finish and let that harden for a couple of days then very carefully polish top coat up . That's what I did on my alloys and it not noticeable now . Though the first few attempts didn't work as I didn't use etching primer and the touch up paint wouldn't adhere to the alloy .

Thanks for the heads up and yeah i think iv already worked out which people know their stuff on here . In regards to those books ill definitely try source them out as im very interested in improving the beams through N/A power preferably . And while i already know an intercooler wouldn't work on a N/A engine in its standard form/setup i much prefer bluntness and directness as things get done quicker that way and tbh iv a lot to learn about this motor

cheers for clarifying that pal . And yes i know the principles of how an intercooler works on a turbo,d engine and was more investigating a modified system ...glad you understand me lol . Wasn't aware that ford had already stole my idea ,,,,,,how did it work for them in regards of performance ? I know as you pointed out that theirs was run on a forced induction system but surly the benefits would be transferred to a N/A engine ...just in lesser amounts i would assume

just had a look but not sure what the glue gun is for ?? if that's a kit where you have to drill the panel its no good as my car has been re sprayed by a previous owner and cant get a colour match . having trouble at the moment trying to cover a scratch and the Toyota 040 looks cream compared to my paintwork

no I appreciate the advice mate and glad you said that because I would of tried to get it out in one fell swoop never mind 1-2 hours lol.......so your trained in this yeah mmmm fancy a drive over to east yorks pal ;)

already tried that last week and popped the paint right in the middle of the dent ...luckily its only a pin prick size bit of paint that popped off so stuck a bit of touch up pen in it . yeah that did cross my mind as im not the gentlest of people when it comes to things like this . tbh im the only person who notices it but like you ..I see it every time its in my view so need it out ..ill let you know how effective it is if I do try it

bought this today to have a go at getting that small dent out of the side of the front off side wing.https://www.wilcodirect.co.uk/product/bodywork/suction-cup-pistol-grip As you can see on the pic its in a place where the metal has contours so was wondering ... do you think it will work ? or could I do more damage to the wing using this tool . just seeking advice before I try tomorrow

am I right in thinking a turbo conversion would cost about the same ? and wouldn't the turbo give between 250 and 300 bhp with decat .

how expensive is "very expensive" and is there a lot more work to just bolting them

Ok you've lost me ..what the hell you to guys going on a bout . sound good and the pic looks good but that's as far as iv got tbh I don't think I would remember to keep replacing bottles all the time and would find it a nuisance ....would be more interested in a closed loop system like how air con works where you just need to recharge at lengthy intervals

cheers Zuban you have helped me make up mind . I will be getting it piggybacked now but will research which is the best unit for the job ...maybe the ultimate is not the best to extract gains for the beams . also just had the exhaust fixed ..turned out to be a manufacturing default on the stainless backbox and it had split the seam where the stab joins the box . Also had them check over the car and oil and coolant look fine and they are pretty confidant the white/grey smoke is just oil burning off .

cheers guys and yeah its very faint almost wispy white/grey smoke ...only happens when I rev it past 3k and disappears immediately after revving has ceased EDIT didn't get any smell today while revving it ...just the smoke

cheers Ash will check it out anyone any ideas with the white smoke ? looking online just now and im getting results for head gasket on way out