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Insanity-74

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Insanity-74 last won the day on February 15 2014

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  1. There was a test change something like six years ago and rules on a cat test are simple, if your car came from the factory fitted with a cat, guess what! No matter how much you argue that its an import or not etc etc, its going to have to have a cat test. Unless you can find an mot tester willing to put another car through or run a non cat test (after all who has ever had there mot certificate checked out?) But i will have a cat fitted to my project build as without wishing to sound like a tree hugging hippy (which i am not) I care about the health of my daughter and the world i will leave behind, i dont want to add to an already poluted world for her and her generation to clean up......and there isnt that much of a difference, after removing the cat for the same reason as everyone else come mot time i put it back on, couldnt really tell the difference and ran the car for six+ years without having to worry about the mot, or putting the cat back on etc etc.
  2. Started cleaning mine with auto glym engine cleaner, then a bit of hot water, fairy liquid and some rice, give it a good shake, came up like new
  3. The Deox C, it disolves the rust away leaving just fresh steel.
  4. During the course of my project build i have done a bit of research into rust removal and the options out there if you dont own a welder/sand blaster or grinder. I am a big fan of Bilt Hamber products, if there is something that you can remove from your car then their Deox C powder os brilliant, you make up a solution by mixing it in water and submerse the part in it. This is a rear diff i did a year or so ago. Before After all i did was give it a light scrubbing with a wire brush, i just left it in the solution for about two weeks. The gell they have is almost as good, but you can paint it onto parts that you cant submerse in the solution, i did my rusty boot lid this week and its come out looking great, no rust at all. (and no Coke, vinegar etc wont do the same job....i tried it) After that i have tried a couple of paints,at first i went with a highly recommended product called POR15 rust preventing paint, which i am not a great fan of to be honest, it has a great finish, very smooth and glossy, even when applied with a brush, it just dosnt stick to rust free metal very well, its good if you want to paint over rust, but thats not really the right way to do it. After that i tried Epoxy Mastix 121 & Epoxy Mastic 421, both very good, the 121 is for the underside and chassis, the 421 is for body panels, both spray on with a gun, and both give a great finish on which to apply the next coat. expensive, but i highly recommend them both. (dont hand paint them with a brush as the finish is rubbish if you do) Not really rust killing paints, but they will help prevent it from coming back. on top of that you can ut your desired stone guard, there are lots out there and a couple of very good ones, 3M & Soudal spring to mind, i have tried both and prefer the Soudal but they are both pretty much of a muchness. You can paint over the Soudal to match the colour of your car. The next step of rust defence (which is the last thing you should do) is using a cavity wax. Now i know that loads of people recommend Waxol, but to be honest i hate the stuff, there is much better out there. i tried the winner of the car restorers magazine long term test Noxudol 700, it comes is a can and a canister to attach to a compressor, its quite thin so it leaches into the gaps between metal panels, after about 4 days it waxes up and remains in place. unlike waxol it dosnt harden up and crack.
  5. I bought my current faff as a more or less bare shell....saved it from the scrap yard.I have been restoring it for around 4 years so i have never driven it, not even a single yard.
  6. Owned mine for four years, and never driven it.....is that a record?
  7. Bilt Hamber do a great rust convertor. For paint either epoxy mastic 121 pr POR15 products.
  8. My project build i am not putting any silicone hoses on it at all if i can help it. OEM rubber or stainless braided hoses. I have never known a silicone water hose fail, but they discolour pretty quickly. Also silicone vacuum hose is best avoided. They are okayish, but rips really easily if knicked by something sharp or if its slightly too small internal size. Definately form over function.
  9. Happy 6 Anniversary PaulyC!

  10. Happy 9 Anniversary mani!

  11. Happy 2 Anniversary Sporran_man!

  12. Happy 3 Anniversary Angus13!

  13. Happy 10 Anniversary Insanity-74!

  14. A friend of mine had his car fully set up by a similar company, corner weighing etc, cost nearly £300 in total but the difference was outstanding. The Car was a Toyota MR2 with a v6 or v8 conversion (I cant remember which?), it went from a twitchy, nervous & unpredictable driving car to something that felt well planted and a pleasure to drive, the difference was like night and day. Its definately on my list of things to do when my project build is complete, in fact after getting it mapped it will be the very next thing I do. Also Andy (Redbeast From The GT4OC) had the same thing done to his RS200 Kit car, funilly enough also a Toyota MRS with a v6 conversion with the same results, I think it cost him slightly less, about £250 if i recall. But he had tried all sorts of things to improve its drivability, tyres, tyre pressures, tracking, different suspension, coilovers, non coilovers, the list goes on.The full set up completely changed his car.
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