FreakyParts

The kit isn't a Wilwood kit, the only parts that's Wilwood is the calipers. They're not sliding calipers like most production cars, so don't suffer from the slider sticking - as there aren't any. If they're sticking it will be a piston inside the caliper which involves a strip down and refurbish. Not a mammouth task but will take the best part of the day. If you do remove a front caliper, make sure you clean the bolts up and reapply some thread lock to stop the bolts vibrating loose.

Drop me a message and we'll sort out some replacements for that front setup. I'll need a couple of measurements as there was a couple of different kits which used those calipers.

Are they free? I don't see any reason 1-why they did it and 2-why it would make any difference when fitting. But they weren't made/supplied by us so it would be buyer beware.

We can supply full braided hose kits if you're interested. All stainless fittings including new banjo bolts and washers, and a large range of colours are available. We can do deals on brake and clutch hose kits as well. Drop me a PM and we can sort something out.

For the OEM look, silver coating. For something a bit different gold. For the stealth look, black For the price, it's not worth getting a brush dirty or messing around masking the disc off. Have you a colour theme going on in the car? If so try and get the hoses to match. It's subtle enough but you know they're there. I've got No10 on my car, and No18 on the missus's. But as they're exo-skeleton cars and run through the centre you can see them so it adds a bit of a finishing touch to it.

All orders are shipped with an invoice saying: "All parts should be fitted by a qualified professional. All bolts (if not secured with a nyloc nut) should be secured with the appropriate threadlock. Fitting diagrams can be supplied if required." I'm guessing you've not read the receipt

As I said to Toiletduck via PM, I always recommend any parts supplied are fitted by a professional. They'll hopefully know things like the threadlock and if the wheels are sitting flush. If you fit them yourself you take full responsibility for ensuring they're fitted correctly the same way as if you fit new pads or put a spare wheel on. We can advise how we recommend to fit them and what if any products we use but ultimately it's down to the customer to ensure the parts are fitted correctly.

Just to clear up the suggested way of applying threadlock. My engineer suggested threadlock and finger tight, then bolt on the wheel as if you don't hang around with the fitting, the threadlock won't have set and you won't be breaking the threadlock seal when you put the wheel nut on and torque up. This way you will be torqueing both the stud (with threadlock) and nut upto 70lb/ft. If you do the 2 nut method with threadlock you won't get upto 70lb, but may not necessarily get the wheel on in time before the threadlock sets, then you torque the wheel upto 70lb/ft and crack the seal on the threadlock. So whichever way you do it, you don't want the threadlock set before you torque the wheel nuts up, otherwise if it's set, cranking the nut to 70lb/ft will crack the seal and you'll be in the same situation. And yes, I did use the word threadlock 9 times in the above post

Have a look here, I wrote a guide for the different ones: http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/142615-wheel-spacers-explained/ We can supply anything you need, drop me a PM when you've had a look.