_Chris_

The laws are very complex regarding taking items to repay debts, and contravening these can be a criminal offence, or at the very least can lead to a large compensation claim. Effectively any items taken that aren't owned by the debtor are stolen property, this may even apply to goods taken without court documentation. Bear in mind that a company and the company owner is not one and the same.

There are many types of LED. An old fashioned pure LED would probably go pop with the current passed by a relay coil, but nowadays many leds come with series resistors (which would stop the relay pulling in) or high power/high brightness which would probably work in the diagram shown. The safest bet is to get an LED rated for 14V (12V) or an old fashioned led plus a series 1K ish resistor and wire in paralell with the relay coil. As far as permanent power, you may have wired to the normally closed contact, and then not have sufficient current topull in the relay. It is also possible that the relay is wired correctly but has insufficient current for the load and the contact has welded together. Amplifiers usually have large capacitors which pull a very high current for a short time at power on, this is renowned for weldingrelay contacts. Another safety issue is that you should have a fuse next to the battery with a rating no higher than the wiring it is feeding. i.e. if you have used 50A wire, then the fuse should be rated 50A or less. This is so that if you get a short in the wiring or any other sort of overload, the fuse will blow before the wire catches fire. You can use lower rated fuses in the fusebox and then run thinner wires from there.

If it wasn't limited to celicas, I could mention the copper pipe over the snapped gearstick on my old escort. It got me home, and worked so well I didn't rush to do the job properly. The cops weren't impressed when they pulled me over one day though.

Have you tried driving it with the traction control switched off ?

As long as the bellhousing is held solidly to the engine, it shouldn't have an effect on the clutch. The biggest danger of mixing up bolts is a short bolt where a long one should be may pull the tread out, if a bolt is too long it may go tight before it's actually holding anything, and this is what may cause clutch issues. If these links work, it should be the Toyota workshop manuals for the gen 7. Dropbox are discontinuing public link sharing so I'm trying google. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1egIA8cOCXVNlp5ZVpMWmc1MWM https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1egIA8cOCXVMERSSjAweVZhVWc

I'm not familiar with gen 7, is it normal for security light to fkash with an engine problem ? Assuming no, it sounds far more like a poor connection causing electrical power loss. Most likely with the clutch swap a connection has been left loose (e.g. earth strap or battery), a plug not pushed fully together, or something shorting to earth, e,g, nattery left loose or loom left rubbing on engine or body. Also, check all the bolts are tight holding engine to gearbox, and clutch cylinder bolts. These loose would cause inconsistent bite point and kangarooing described. Unless you are an experienced mechanic, don't try removing and refitting the engine. Far more likely you will just ruin the car or end up with a pile of parts and no idea how to put them back. It may be an idea to take the car to someone experienced and familiar with the car such as AMS. They are far more likely to spot the problem.

I presume it was the output wire then ?

If you mean M6 thread (10mmAF) then yes. All the other (low power) wires go via the plug.

If you mean the wire was getting hot at the big ring terminal on the back of the alternator, this is a fairly common problem and is due to corrosion causing a poor contact. Heat is generated when you have a high resistance but still enough connection to get some current flowing. (power = volts x amps - with no voltage drop (good connection) or no current (open circuit) there is no heat ) The problem becomes a vicious circle as the heat produced by a slightly high resistance joint accellerates the corrosion. The solution is to follow the wire back into the solid loom housing that goes over the cam belt to where there has been no heating, cut the wires at this point then join on new wire & eyelet connector. Use wire (copper part) at least as big as the original and either ensure good quality crimp connections or better still solder & sleeve. (I often strip the insulator off the crimps after and then solder as well, then sleeve) Soldering will avoid corrosion in the copper being a problem, but it also makes the wire brittle so better not to do this where there may be vibration / flexing.

I saw this & thought of this thread.

It's backside covering as there are items they can't inspect e.g. brake lines.

Absence makes the farts go Honda.

The gen 7 is a very differently engineered car to the earlier ones. Much more like working on my clio or pug. Look at VW reputation, especially the VW 1.9TDi engine. In less than a year £2K in garage bills (didn't have time to do it myself) and it still overheats at speeds over 60, or uphill, or towing. A lemon is a lemon, and all makes have them, usually due to previous owner abuse.

Not true. The vast majority will undo with fingers once they've been cracked & done the first 1/2 turn. Unless you have a very unlucky one that's been kept at the seaside.

I've bought them for as little as 'free to a good home'. Mostly, you pay for what's left on the tyres. For some reason, people seem to think they must be rubbish because they're standard. In practice, there are very few aftermarket wheels better in respect to strength, weight and airflow over the brakes.

Well, it's just over a year since my last celica running broke it's gearbox and joined the line of dead celicas outside my workshop. Work pressurs and personal circumstances left me with no suitable time to be able to do the work needed to get any of them back on the road. Anyway, thanks to a gearbox from TCB and some effort from BEK my red auto gen 6 went back on the road yesterday and went straight into service today on a site run over to Bideford & back. For the first time in ages I really enjoyed the drive without the frustration of being overtaken by the caravans up the hills. Hopefully Ezzy will be joining the fleet later this week, again thanks to a lot of floorpan & sill reconstruction work from Bek. Huge thanks Bek, You've made someone happy today

As far as I know it will be in eeprom which will last decades.

Either you didn't tighten it, or someone else came along and loosened it. Oil on the threads is good as it helps the bolt tighten up properly. I always put grease on threads when re-assembling things, both to ensure torque is correct and also to make future servicing easier as the threads won't be rusty.

Someone didn't hold the ratchet head square when pulling the handle. I would suggest application of heat from a blowtorch then use an air chisel or SDS drill & chisel on hammer only. Hold towards middle first to make a notch then turn so it's hammering it undone.

First, good application of heat on the nut from a blowtorch. Then air chisel (or sds drill with rotation switched off) firstly pointing direct in towards centre to make a notch, then turn so it's hammering to undo.

It's spelt Shutz. You get a special spray gun that screws directly into the tins to apply it. This is the stuff I use.

I had bad experience with hammerite many years ago in that I painted the drivers floorpan which had surface rust on it. 6 months later my foot went through it. I was an old escort though so made out of baked bean cans. I tend to be a bit skeptical about some of the newer 'wonderpaints' for the same reason, so I tend to go the more traditional route of red oxide paint onto the metal. I then tend to do a layer of 'conformal coating' - something we use in electronics as it's moisture repellant, and finally a layer of underseal for it's anto chip properties. I have been told waxoil isn't great on the exterior as it's too soft and gets washed / brushed off fairly quickly. I normally use this for inner structure such as inside sills, doors etc. The most important thing is to get as much rust as possible off first, and above all ensure it's absolutetly dry so you're not sealing in moisture - otherwise it will rot quicker than ever. Don't underestimate how long it takes for moisture to evaporate from nooks & crannies - especially if there is still dirt or rust in them.

It's not unknown for people to drill holes to fit sideskirts and not seal them properly allowing water to get in to the sills. I know the gen 5 sunroof drains also went into the sills, not sure about later models. The usual mot bodge is to slap a plate over and weld round. To do properly involves cutting the rusty area right out including inner structure and welding in new metal, ideally replacing the whole sill but can be done with just a patch butt welded. Not a massive task but commercial welders tend to charge a lot.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8316230/download_pdf/st205_3s_gte_rev3_engine_supplement_rm398e.pdf p.60 (EG 32) The markings for 0 and 10 are on the cam belt cover. Worth marking the 10 degree one with white. When setting, make sure your head is placed so that the 10 degree mark is in line with the crank pulley center to avoid paralax error. It all works by strobe action - the voltage pulse for the spark triggers a very short flash from the timing light, illuminating the TDC line on the pulley at that moment against the fixed scale on the belt cover. The E1-TE1 link fixes timing at 10 degrees as far as the ECU is concerned, so you adjust the distributer (ECU triggers) until you actually get 10 degrees.

Changing dizzy cap won't affect the timing, you would need to loosen the 2 bolts holding the dizzy to the head for that. On the other hand, knowing your symptoms it would be worth checking anyway. Link E1 & TE1 and verify engine light is flashing, then check pulley mark lines up with 10 degree mark.