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oilman

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    South West
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    Cars

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  1. Happy 12 Anniversary oilman!

  2. Happy 11 Anniversary oilman!

  3. Happy 10 Anniversary oilman!

  4. Hi Simon A straight 40 is basically a 40w-40, so basically very very little cold start protection. In most cases with classics, a 20w-50 is often preferable to the straight grades. With roller bearings, Silkolene Comp 4 20w-50 is often a brilliant option for the very best protection. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1123-silkolene-comp-4-20w-50-synthetic-ester-based-4-stroke-engine-oil-for-high-performance-motorcycles.aspx Cheers Tim
  5. As it's not getting that hot, I would say that you are probably best off with a quality 5w-30, like the Fuchs Pro S. Cheers Tim
  6. Have you got an oil cooler fitted? Cheers Tim
  7. Engine Oil Viscosity Viscosity is the most misunderstood aspect of oil and yet it is the most important. Viscosity is the force required to shear (break) the oil at a certain speed and temperature. Oils work because they have viscosity; the drag of a rotating part pulls oil from a low-pressure area into a high pressure area and “floats” the surfaces apart. This is called “hydrodynamic lubrication” and crankbearings depend on it. Oil must be capable of flowing at low temperatures, so that it gets around the engine in a fraction of a second at start-up and must protect engine components at high temperatures without evaporating or carbonising and maintain adequate (not excessive) oil pressure. Many people think that the thicker the oil, the better the protection, but if the oil is too thick, it will not flow properly, leading to reduced protection. The numbers on every can of oil indicate its performance characteristics when new but there are many misconceptions on what these numbers actually mean. For multigrade oils you will see two numbers (for monograde oils only one). The first is followed by a “w” and is commonly 0, 5, 10, 15 or 20. The second number is always higher than the first and is commonly 20, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The first and second numbers ARE NOT related. The “w” number (0, 5, 10, 15 or 20) When multigrade oils first appeared, a low temperature test called “w” (meaning “winter” not weight) was introduced. Using a “Cold Crank Simulator", the test measures the oils ability to flow at low temperatures. ALL oils are THICKER at low temperatures than at high temperatures but the lower the “w” number, the quicker the oil will flow at low temperatures. The second number (20, 30, 40, 50 or 60) This number is known as the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) number and is measured in “Centistokes” (cst) at 100C. Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the thicker the oil. An oils cst at 100C determines its SAE rating within the following parameters. SAE 20 = 5.6 to less than 9.3cst SAE 30 = 9.3 to less than 12.5cst SAE 40 = 12.5 to less than 16.3cst SAE 50 = 16.3 to less than 21.9cst SAE 60 = 21.9 to less than 26.0cst ALL oils labelled 40 must fall within the SAE parameters at 100C so everything from a monograde 40 to multigrade 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40 or 20w-40 are approximately the same thickness at 100C. Some oil companies label oils as SAE 35, 45 or 55, but as you can see from the above figures, there isn't a SAE 35, 45 or 55. This "could" be because they are approximately on the boundary of the two grades, but as we don't deal with any of those I can't really comment further. Summary Cold start. A 5w-40 will flow better than a 10w-40. A 10w-50 will flow better than a 15w-50 A 5w-40 is the same as a 5w-30 At operating temperatures. A 10w-50 is thicker than a 10w-40. A 15w-50 is thicker than a 5w-40 A 0w-40 is the same as a 10w-40 If you look above, you will see that the figures quoted do not indicate at all as to whether the oil is synthetic or mineral based... Well except for 0w oils as synthetic PAO basestock is required to acheive this viscosity. Generally the oil you use should be based on the manufacturers recommendation found in the owners manual, but then modifications, climate and the type of use can affect that recommendation. If you are unsure of what is the correct recommendation for your car and would like to know more please contact us here oilman@opieoils.co.uk With thanks to John Rowland of Fuchs/Silkolene Cheers Tim and the Opie Oils team
  8. Happy Anniversary oilman!

  9. It's a bit weird with oil, a lot of people think of it as genuine, rather than own brand. The own brand ones are the basic option really, they just meet the needs of the car when it's standard and used sensibly. With proper branded oils, they are made to exceed specifications (they will be used in many different vehicles, some of which will need better oils than others). Also, a 10w-40 semi synthetic is an okay grade to use in a Celica, but changing to a 5w-40 increases the cold start protection and going for a synthetic rather than semi gives better all round protection and lasts longer. Cheers Tim
  10. Thanks for the order. Yes, it's the same filter for both versions. Cheers Tim
  11. Hi Tony 15w-40 is a very basic option and Kev is right about the cold starts and the other grades - 10w-40 is fine , but a 5w-40 is the better option. We've got a couple of Fuchs bargains at the moment. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-984-fuchs-titan-supersyn-5w-40-high-performance-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-990-fuchs-titan-syn-mc-10w-40-high-performance-semi-synthetic-engine-oil-formerly-known-as-fuchs-titan-xtr.aspx Cheers Tim
  12. Happy Anniversary oilman!

  13. Is that the Edge FST 5w-40 or the old one? Cheers Tim
  14. I know this is off topic for me, but I have a couple of those. I've used the normal one for recording gigs and sports and the waterproof one for surfing. If you have a look on youtube, you'll see a lot of people using them on cars and bikes, just duck tape it to the bumper.
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